![how to install transmission crossmember on a mgb how to install transmission crossmember on a mgb](http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/gearbox/pics/rear_mount30.jpg)
I thought perhaps installing the mounts and butterfly to the trans first might work better. One is trying to align the trans mounts and the butterfly mounts together. I loosened passenger trans mount nut from the stud. But can't seem to get the passenger side mount holes aligned even with the two center bolts removed.
#How to install transmission crossmember on a mgb driver#
Like starting the crossmember to body bolts a few turns, that rod, using a floor jack, etc.Īs of now I got the two driver side mount bolts started. Trying to align the mounts and the butterfly holes using one hand and getting those bolts started while juggling the crossmember in another.Īs always I start each bolt (on everything) a few turns just to hold it in place so I have some wiggle room.
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The only problem is trying to get the four bolts started. I do have all the pieces aligned correctly my car being non overdrive. I thought what might be a straight forward job has turned into a three hour ordeal. I hate to revive an old thread but I'm in the same boat. JT is his YouTube video squeezes the bottom bracket sligthly inwards in a vice, or its bolt holes with their captive nuts do not align with the crossmember ones. Since the nuts for them in the bottom bracket are captive fitting these bolts can be last in the second "Haynes" method. The rubber parts between it and these 2 brackets are pushed in, once you tighten the 2 bolts through the crossmember as a last step. PS The vertical pin AHH7855 acting as a stabilizer pulls top and bottom bracket together. If you short these 2 threaded ends on the rubber mounts beforehand it still may work this way though, because then the situation again resembles the original Haynes picture. This presumes that these ends can be put in by pressure, for which they are too long nowadays. Then manipulate the crossmember over the 2 threaded ends on the mounts. So the last step is tighening these 2 bolts pulling this bottom bracket to the crossmemberĪnother method, wrongly described (or no longer applicable) in Haynes is first putting the rubber mounts and the center piece on the gearbox so you still have easy access to the 4 bolt heads. I let the bottom bolts holding the lower bracket to the crossmember rather loose until the top mounts are firmly fixed to the gearbox. It may take a number of tries to succeed and access for thightening the bolts is limited. If you are using this method the tricky part is in getting the 4 coarse-threaded bolts in the gearbox at the end. CCE rear attached to Salisbury axle with Quaife.Įdited 2 time(s). Powered by 'worked' Rover 5 litre V8 with efi. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators front & Mk1 rear lights. VW Golf flared guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild finished 2015. When the whole was attached to the chassis I rechecked that the butterfly and mounts were indeed tight then I fitted my stayrod - note this is not the stock attachment for a MK1 but I'm running a later gearbox and chose to fit the >74.5 restraint system.Ĭonvertible: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67 owned since 3/77. I used a hoist so that makes things easier. Once all that was fitted I tightened everything up and then raised the gearbox up to the chassis. Once those were on I also fitted the nuts to the centre of the vulcanised mounts - with the xmember hanging loosely you can twist it down sufficient to get a socket and extension bar in there so no need to drill extra holes.
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Well I did it by having the gearbox resting on the chassis and then bolting on the xmember after I'd loosely fitted the vulcanised mounts to the gearbox as well as the butterfly. Dec 10 All British Field Meet - Portland.Dec 23 Rear Suspension Leaf Springs (.